Category Archives: Spirit of place

Moments of enchantment

I live in a wild, remote and beautiful place where opportunities for enchantment come thick and fast. But sometimes, still, there are moments that take my breath away. Late yesterday afternoon, just before dusk, I took a brief solitary walk out onto our headland. Mist was everywhere; the mountains behind were invisible and the presence of the sea ahead was apparent in nothing more than the sound of water washing against jagged rock (the Atlantic is never truly quiet). As I slowly approached the small hillock where usually I like to stand to look out across the land, I began to make out the shadowy shapes of a group of stags just ahead of me. In this part of the world, red deer are so plentiful that they can be a nuisance, and some years we’ve seen gangs of stags thirty-strong roaming the township, grazing on the crofts that aren’t deer-fenced. I slowed down even more, but not before a couple of the stags closest to me had noticed my approach. They didn’t run; you need to have a dog in tow or be moving pretty quickly to spook these deer; they’re surprisingly resilient. They just moved, each one of them to a different side of the group. The others took their lead and each of them also moved a few steps away from where they’d previously been standing. I came to a complete halt, with this group of nineteen stags now ranged in a semi-circle at the bottom of the hillock in front of me. They were part-animal, part-shadow in the mist, but a stag with a particularly grand set of horns (a Royal, for sure) broke from the semi-circle and took a few steps forward towards me. I stood completely still. He took a few steps back. Then a few more forward. The others stayed where they were, motionless. For a moment, no more, it felt like a threat, with a sudden sharp lurch of atavistic fear, a curious reversal of the normal pattern of hunter and hunted. The ‘dance’ of this elder stag lasted a good five minutes, until I set them free by lifting my hand and moving forward, at which point they finally turned to flee – nineteen shadows running through the fog, along the ridge that leads north.

It would be all too easy to read more into this than it was – to look for ‘signs’, or to read into it some other significance. But here is the thing about enchantment: it doesn’t require magic; it simply requires attention. It is enchantment enough simply to say that for five minutes, maybe a little bit more, in a foggy out-of-time encounter with nineteen stags, I was fully in that moment, and fully aware of myself simply as one animal facing another.

A conversation on transformative stories, place and belonging

It’s been a while since I found the time to post another article here – the ongoing challenges of keeping up with EarthLines, working the croft, being grounded for a month by a broken wrist … but more is on the way. In the meantime, you might like to take a look at this long conversation I’ve been having with Jeppe Dyrendom Graugaard on transforming stories, place and belonging. It picks up on and expands many of the themes I’ve developed here and elsewhere. (This is one of a series of such conversations on Jeppe’s website – I can recommend checking them out. He’s working on a PhD at the University of East Anglia, and you’ll find many interesting pathways to meander down on the site.)

http://patternwhichconnects.com/blog/transforming-stories-sharon-blackie-on-the-culture-of-nature/

On belonging, and the storying of place

One of my favourite books on myth, story and place, Keith Basso’s Wisdom Sits in Places, focuses on the ways in which a sense of place and of belonging among the Western Apache people is tied up with stories that are embedded in the landscape. Their stories are born out of a magical mixture of oral history and reconstructed memory, and have an educational function in the community (‘stories go to work on you like arrows … stories make you live right’). Here’s how Basso describes it:

‘The past lies embedded in features of the earth … which together endow their lands with multiple forms of significance that reach into their lives and shape the ways they think. Knowledge of places is therefore closely linked to knowledge of the self, to grasping one’s own position in the larger scheme of things, including one’s own community, and to securing a confident sense of who one is as a person.’

Few of us are blessed with a sense of belonging to a place that reaches so deeply into so many areas of our lives. But in this peripatetic world in which we live, where so few of us are truly rooted or grounded in a place, developing that sense of belonging can be hard. There are many of us who seem never to stand still. It’s one of the things I often think about in relation to the Outer Hebrides where we live, and where so many incomers come who have no history here. How then do you develop that sense of belonging, without taking over or appropriating?

I believe the truth is that you don’t have to be born in a place, or have your family history in a place, to be rooted in it. You root yourself in place in two ways: by observing and learning about the natural history of the land (its wildlife, flowers, rocks, seasons …) and by understanding and participating in its culture (its history, stories, language, values …). You need both, of course; if you’re going to live in a place you owe it and its inhabitants that much respect. That’s how you learn belonging, and if it’s a different kind of belonging from the people who were born and who grew up there, it’s no less valid.

But you don’t stop with learning the old stories. You go on to make your own stories of that place, because you then become a new and unique part of its ongoing natural history and culture. You bring your own points of reference, and you will tell new stories of the place based on your own way of seeing it. (And if your life should move you from place to place, its no less important to develop that sense of belonging in each of them. Instead of being rooted in one place, many of us are rooted in several – an interconnected meshwork of places with which we’ve had relationships.)

And so, sometimes in a place that you’re beginning to belong to, to feel rooted in, new stories start to come to you. For example, there is a place nearby that is very special to me. I don’t know of any stories about it, and as I’ve walked there, sat there, slept there even over the last two and a half years, a new story has begun to form. It’s only the very beginning, the framework of a story right now, and nothing is ready to happen yet, but I thought I’d share it with you anyway.

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If you know where to look, there are way-markers.

Some of them aren’t obvious.

On the way, there are many beautiful things to look at.

You know you’re close when you meet the guardian of the threshold.

If he lets you past, once you’re inside, everything changes.

There’s a beautiful grotto with a crystal-clear pool:

In the pool there are fairy shrimp:

Wherever you look, there are pools and wells …

The rock-people line up at the top of the cliffs …

(The night after I made this journey I had a dream that the tops of these cliffs metamorphosed into roughly carved towering animal-mountains – there was a wolf with two holes for eyes which the sun shone through; there was a bear and an eagle, and behind me in the shallows of the sea there was a whale and a dolphin …)

There’s a rock-bed for a giant – or maybe for the Cailleach …

And finally, at the end of the road, the treasure.

What the treasure consists of, and whether or not I get to take it home, the story will reveal in its own good time.

Restorying the World: Listening to the Land’s Dreaming, and The Bear Outside

At this time of year our work on the croft is so intense that finding time to keep up with writing is close to impossible. And so I offer you this article, published in the May Issue of EarthLines Magazine. It includes an article from me called ‘Listening to the Land’s Dreaming’, and a beautiful new story, ‘the Bear Outside’, by the talented Tom Hirons, also known as Coyopa.

Please CLICK HERE to view the article.

Re-storying and belonging

This last weekend I ran a session called ‘Re-storying the Earth’ at the Carrying the Fire Festival in Biggar, Lanarkshire, in the context of myths from the Outer Hebrides. There are a couple of ideas which I talked about at the session that I’d like to share here, and so here is a small part of the text of that talk.


Any storyteller will remember that a long, long time ago, and through all the years between then and now, and indeed, even now, and for sure, in the future, at midnight on every 31 October a big change comes over the world. On that night, a recumbent figure rises from the contours of the hills of the Hebrides. She rises from the hills, her skin blue with cold, and her long white hair straggling behind her. If you didn’t know where to look for her, you’d never have known she was there. And even if you did know she was there, you’d have thought she was dead – or sleeping. She wasn’t ever dead, or sleeping. She was just biding her time.

They call her the Cailleach – the old woman. She’s not just any old woman, though – she was here before the land itself. Indeed, they say that she was the one who created the hills in the first place: she made them for her stepping stones as she danced across the land. And as she dances she carries a hammer, to shape the hills and the valleys. Sometimes she’ll herd the deer and the sheep as she dances, and wherever her staff touches the ground, it freezes. And if you look out onto the hills in the darkness of the night throughout the long winter season, chances are you’ll see her there, dancing from hill to hill, leaving a trail of cold white frost behind her.

You don’t mess with the Cailleach … she’s our very own Kali, dancing to create. Because it’s not death that she brings to the land with her dancing: it’s the renewal of sleep, the renewal of creativity as the hard bones of winter lay bare all that is inside us. She culls old growth, brings transformation. She’s the guardian of the seed as it builds its strength for the next summer’s growth.

When the long hard days of winter are done, and she begins to tire of her labour, the hills become her resting place, and she sleeps in the hills for longer and longer periods of time. And as she sleeps, at dawn on Imbolc – February 2 – her sister begins to wake. Her sister is Brighid, or Bride: the spring maiden. Bride has a bright green mantle that has been tightly wrapped around her all winter; as she begins to waken, little by little she shrugs off the mantle, and it begins to spread out over the fields and flowers spring up from the place where the mantle rests. Bride looks after the cows and the sheep – but more than that, she inspires poets and storytellers. Until, on August 1 – Lammas – she begins to tire, and she sleeps longer and longer, withdrawing her green mantle as she falls into the deepest sleep of winter. And as she begins to sleep, her sister the Cailleach begins to wake …

And so the cycle goes.

Every morning when I wake up and open the shutters I look out onto one of those silhouetted sleeping forms in the hills. I can see the contours of her face in profile, the rise of her chest and the roundness of her belly. It reminds me that the land is animate in its own way, and that, as explorer of oral traditions Robert Bringhurst tells us, ‘Stories are one of the fundamental ways in which we understand the world … some of the basic constituents of the world.’ It reminds me of the story of the Cailleach and Bride, and so of cycles, and of balance. As I walk our wild and windy headland each morning with the mountains to the east of me and the sea to the west, sometimes I talk to that sleeping form. I tell her my stories, and she tells me hers.

Because the only true stories spring directly from the land. They don’t come from our heads: we’re not talking about sitting down at a computer and making up fiction here, we’re talking about living stories. Alan Garner tells us that such stories are how a nation dreams.

The reality is in the land, in the earth. That’s where the true stories spring from. These are the stories that contribute to our sense of belonging in a place, and belonging springs in good part from understanding the land in all its seasons. Which in turn comes from getting out there and being in it, from understanding some of its history (not just of the people, but of the land itself). From understanding its stories.

In most western cultures, we’ve lost those stories. Unlike many of the world’s indigenous peoples, who never let them completely die. The Australian aborigines, who walk the songlines singing the stories of the ancestors in the Dreamtime, and by so doing believe that they keep the land in existence. Like the Native Americans: ‘The truth about stories is that that’s all we are,’ says Native North American writer Thomas King. ‘I will tell you something about stories,’ the Laguna storyteller Leslie Silko says, ‘They aren’t just entertainment/ Don’t be fooled/ They are all we have, you see/ All we have to fight off/ Illness and death. You don’t have anything/ If you don’t have the stories.’ For Native Americans like Silko, a story is an intricate part of a web that cradles all the past, present and future events, ceremonies, beliefs and traditions of their culture. In the centre of this web is the land. Each story is part of another story which is linked to yet another one, and all these stories are connected back to the very origin of creation.

But we have lost the power of our stories. We’ve relegated them to fairy stories: stories that we tell to children. We think they’re just there for entertainment. We don’t believe in them any more; we certainly don’t believe they have any power. We’ve dispossessed our stories; we’ve disenchanted them. Max Weber talked about western Modernity as a ‘progressive disenchantment of the world’. Part of that disenchantment is the loss of our belief in the importance of stories. This is important, because it is stories that provide ways to test our hypotheses about the nature of the world, that attach us to place, to the land, to the earth. The folk tales, the fairy stories, the legends, the myths. These are the stories that hold a real power to transform, the stories that reveal the world to us in all its complexity. That peel layers of the world away like an onion.

What can you do when you’ve lost your stories? Well, you set about finding them again. That’s why the title of this session is ‘Re-storying the Earth’. We have to find our stories again. But it’s not necessarily about making up new stories; the old stories still have their power. Simon Schama put it this way: ‘An understanding of landscape’s past traditions is a source for illumination of present and future.’ The old stories never left, you see. We just need to remember them.

What do I mean by re-storying? Well, I wonder how many of you have read Toni Morrison’s beautiful novel, Beloved. If you have, you’ll perhaps remember that she uses a concept called rememory. Rememory is about reimagining one’s heritage. Revisiting a memory, and reconstructing it. “Rememory” differs from “memory” in its active force, which is independent of the rememberer. The continued presence of that which has disappeared or been forgotten, as when the novel’s main character Sethe “remember[s] something she had forgotten she knew”. Re-storying, in the same way, is revisiting a story, reconstructing it, remembering something we have forgotten we knew. Re-storying, then, is in some sense not only about keeping the old stories alive, but about keeping the old stories fresh by transforming them. In Silko’s novel Ceremony, medicine man Betonie talks about changing stories and ceremonies, and the need for them to change as the world changes: ‘In many ways, the ceremonies have always been changing … only this growth keeps the ceremonies strong … things which don’t shift and grow are dead things.’ Re-storying isn’t about reinterpretation of the old stories. It isn’t about interpretation at all. It’s about growing the stories, transforming for the times.